Driving past tiered chartreuse tea plantations, misty cardamom estates, and waterfalls tumbling onto winding roads, we reached the serene twin towns of Kumily and Thekkady in Kerala. Nestled in the Idukki district on the Kerala-Tamil Nadu border, these twin towns brim with cosy homestays, charming hotels, and souvenir shops filled with tea, coffee, spices and homemade chocolates, all set against a backdrop of lush wilderness and exotic flora and fauna.

A view of the performance area and swimming pool from the Tamarind Tree restaurant

Tucked away at 2,000 ft in these cool highlands, CGH Earth’s award-winning Spice Village became my home for the next three days. Spread across 12 acres and surrounded by cardamom and Karimunda pepper plantations in Kumily, it promised luxurious experiences amid nature, bordering the biodiverse Periyar Tiger Reserve in the Western Ghats.

A Vermicomposting unit as part of the green initiatives at Spice Village

At first sight, Spice Village exuded rustic charm. It looked like a reimagined hamlet steeped in nature and local culture. The reception, a clay hut with elegant interiors, set the tone. Renju, the attentive front-office manager, welcomed me with warm smiles, fruit drinks, and handcrafted paper-mâché garlands— adding a thoughtful touch.

An old colonial hunter's cottage turned into a guest house

Having finished the arrival formalities, I was accompanied out of the lounge through a side door, towards my designated room. Past the lounge, manicured lawns and plantations framed elephant grass thatched-roof cottages that blended into nature. Meandering paths, lined with numbered and named trees, guided me to the property’s highlights: a souvenir shop, the 50-Mile restaurant, historical Woodhouse Lounge bar, and a laid-back Tamarind Tree restaurant. Lush lawns alive with chirping of birds, an azure pool, and an open-air theatre hosting dusk performances created a tranquil yet vibrant setting.

Welcome pendants made with paper mache

Equally charming and picturesque were the 52 guest cottages, designed in earthy tones. Solar-lit paths led to these cottages, where WiFi blended discreetly with rustic elegance.

On a trek inside the Periyar Tiger Reserve

My cottage, like others around it, featured a red-oxide-floored verandah, recycled pinewood furniture repurposed from old crates adding to the cosy interiors, while refillable ceramic dispensers replaced single-use toiletries. It was getting dark, and I was famished after my long journey from Kochi.

It was time to grab a plate!

Rolling chartreuse hills tiered with tea plantations enroute to Kumily.

I took quick strides to the restaurant area, where Arun, the F&B manager informed me that Tamarind Tree offers global and local fare, while 50 Mile Restaurant crafts gourmet dishes using ingredients sourced from within a 50-mile radius. I settled in at Tamarind Tree, drawn to its buffet-style local and global flavours. Live music and dance by local artists elevated my first dinner.

South Indian Thali for lunch at Tamarind Tree restaurant

Soon, Ashly Biji, a young naturalist at Spice Village, introduced himself and ushered me to proudly showcase the works and captures by guests and wildlife enthusiasts at the Tiger Club Interpretation Centre, just post-dinner. He also elaborated the plan chalked out for me for the next day.

Alka, the naturalist at Spice village on a guided tour of the organic farm

At dawn, we set off on a 3–4 km trail past Thekkady Lake, streams, and marshy grasslands. Early enough, I spotted an elephant family tending to their young. Birdwatchers will enjoy rare sightings as I did, while the serene surroundings compel you to introspect. For the less adventurous, Thekkady offers bamboo rafting and boat safaris, drawing large crowds daily, which can feel overwhelming for slow travellers and safari enthusiasts alike.

Sighting of the Lion tailed macaque inside the Periyar Tiger Reserve

Back at the property, after a much-needed heavy breakfast after an eventful morning, I decided to take a stroll around the premises.

Information boards dotting the expanse of the property informed me that the Spice Village runs on 75% solar energy and cuts waste by replacing plastic with refillable glass bottles of in-house RO-purified water. Also, true to CGH Earth's ethos—Clean, Green, and Healthy, fresh produce is grown on-site or sourced locally, while fresh fish arrives from nearby rivers, ensuring sustainability and unmatched freshness.

The resort cottages at dusk

For lunch, Tamarind Tree’s signature South Indian thali of Kerala sadhya, served on a leaf-shaped steel plate with small bowls and bucket-shaped dishes, turned out to be the ultimate post-trek feast. With portions so generous, it could satisfy three hungry adventurers. After such a satisfying meal, you may just need another trek to burn off those calories, as it’s both delicious and filling.

A view of the Tamarind Tree restaurant

Worried about food wastage? Fret not! All food scraps become fertilizer at Spice Village’s vermicompost plants, to nourish the two-acre organic farm, supplying fresh produce daily. While, organic pest control relies on lemongrass, neem, tobacco extracts, and eucalyptus. No wonder the food here was irresistibly fresh and flavourful, tempting me with every bite!

Tea plantations en route to Kumily and Thekkady, from Kochi

Also, food waste composting isn’t the only green initiative of CGH Earth. Old magazines and brochures are recycled into handmade paper and paper-mâché products, from the charming welcome garlands to luggage tags. Alka Sunil Raj, another young naturalist at Spice Village, explained to me this sustainable process while showcasing the property’s handmade paper-making centre, biogas unit, and eco-friendly amenities.

Handmade-paper making center at the resort

During my stay I observed that it’s not just Alka who is personally invested at Spice Village; every staff member shared a deep passion for the property’s activities and took immense pride in CGH Earth’s core ethos. They also  have cultivated a spirit of camaraderie, hospitality, and active involvement with the local communities in surrounding villages and towns. This was evident in their communication and collaborations with forest guides and officials during safaris and treks.

The Thekkady lake inside Periyar National Park

The next morning turned out to be adventurous as I went trekking, boating and sighting the elusive elephants, again with Ashly. Eager to explore Periyar and Cardamom Hills, we took a jeep safari from Kumily to Gavi village, nestled deep inside the forest. A commendable eco-tourism initiative by the Kerala Forest Development Corporation Limited (KFDC), the Gavi tourism packages offer a variety of experiences. Depending on your package, expect a guided forest safari, trekking to Sabarimala view-point, a refreshing boat ride to a hidden waterfall, and a tour of lush cardamom plantations. Most of the packages also include a hearty Kerala breakfast, refreshments, and a freshly-prepared local lunch—enough to fuel the rest of your day in the wild!

The reception lounge of Spice Village

Spice Village caters to all its guests by ensuring a memorable and fulfilling stay, even coordinating such activities for those who wish to enjoy them. Ashly ensured that I had rewarding wildlife sightings inside the Periyar Tiger Reserve on treks and jeep safaris, especially of the endangered and endemic flora and fauna. Thanks to sharp-eyed naturalists like him and other local guides belonging to the local indigenous communities, I was able to spot Lion-tailed macaques, Malabar squirrels, and even a herd of elephants.

While the towns of Kumily and Thekkady bustle with activities—traffic snarls and peak-season crowds included—CGH Earth’s Spice Village surely remains a tranquil retreat. From the moment I arrived, a sense of calm surrounded me, making it easy to get wonderfully lost in its warm hospitality. Little wonder travellers return— and I will, too!